Cosmopolitan, middle-class, suburban - all of these terms must be redefined when we use them to speak of Vanuatu. But in a uniquely local sense, they define the Port Vila neighbourhood of Freswota. Numbered 1-5, its loosely delineated sections are relatively clean, uncrowded and, unlike other parts of the capital, are not divided by concentrations of individual extended families or island groups. Wandering from one end to the other, one can hear languages from all islands - and many other countries as well. Here as everywhere, much of life is lived on the roadsides and public spaces. A walk through this neighbourhood shows a fluid, varied and relatively prosperous area full of colour and vitality.